🔗 Share this article ‘Every Chef Ought to Learn Here’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Ranks 4th on Roll of London’s Best Food Spots. Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London. An Unexpected Honour The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the family utterly surprised. “I’m completely shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list. A Charm of Simplicity The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner. The Namesake Offering: Tantuni Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture. It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside. The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together. Beyond the Classic Tantuni Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”. When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste. Outranking the Stars Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations. Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure. The Philosophy of Warmth It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner. “In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.” This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”. A Path of Perseverance Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son. Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort. “My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects. An Recognition for the People The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.